Embodying Claire

Sewing Claire Fraser’s dress from season 1 of Outlander was my first foray into historical costuming. Well, almost. The fall before the pandemic, I was working on a local community theater company’s production of Sleepy Hollow. Our Katrina von Tassel needed a petticoat, and in my characteristic must-be-easier-than-it-looks naïveté when it comes to crafting, I thought, “I bet I can whip one up!” Luckily, most principles of 18th century garment construction revolve around making it easier than it looks (think housewives needing new skirts, shifts, and jackets from upcycled materials fast and without much fuss — we’ve got households to run, people!). But that petticoat got me thinking: was there another famous 18th century lady whose gown I might recreate?

I always loved this gown of Claire’s in season 1. Here, she’s really settling into her new life in Scotland and learning more about the people and the place. Plus, it looks so fetching on Catriona Balfe!

I actually started with the petticoat. I had an old plaid table cloth (never throw anything away, people) that was strikingly like the Fraser tartan. (Plaid here means the fabric; tartan refers to the pattern, the various designs of which represent the clan families of Scotland.) It just so happened to be the right size for a beautiful full skirt, and of medium weight which would be breathable in the summer but warmer in the colder months.

I then set about finding a pattern for the caraco, or pleated jacket Claire is wearing here. Well, guess where I found one. I meant it when I said in my last post that there is a McCall’s or Simplicity costume pattern for everything. Because this pattern is a costume, the top is all-in-one; there’s no separate linen shift underneath, and it employs snaps to keep the middle insert in place. This was fine by me, but I did also end up making a stays, a shift, a bum roll, and pockets to bring some true 18th century touches to the outfit.

I also purchased a pair of American Duchess Kensingtons, since footwear is really the one thing you can’t easily fudge or replicate when wearing an 18th century kit. I bought them in Oxblood because, well, I AM a lady, after all.

For the cosplay shoot itself, I incorporated touches specific to Claire: her dual wedding rings, her ever-present basket of herbs, and a dagger. Danger was ubiquitous for women in the 18th century, and Claire can defend herself with the best of them. This dagger is special to me: it was gifted to me by the fight coordinator of a production of Macbeth in which I played. I loved having it in the shoot!

But what I loved most about Claire — and what has made her my favorite character to embody — is not her clothes, jewelry, or weaponry. It’s her spirit. Her sense of self is what I hoped to capture and showcase. Claire loves fiercely, stands for what is right no matter what, apologizes, and, above all else, pursues her self to the very end. She is the embodiment of the Fraser motto: Je suis prest. I am ready.

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